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If you are replacing a chainsaw chain or guide bar, one of the first things you need to know is your bar size.
That sounds simple, but many people measure the entire metal bar from end to end and get the wrong number.
In most cases, the number used for replacement parts is the cutting length, also called the called length, not the total overall length of the guide bar.
In this guide, you will learn how to measure a chainsaw bar correctly, what bar length actually means, and how to use that information to choose the right replacement chain or bar.
To measure a chainsaw bar correctly, measure from the front edge of the chainsaw body to the tip of the guide bar.
Do not measure the section hidden inside the saw housing.
Then round the measurement to the nearest standard inch size, such as 14", 16", 18", or 20".
The correct bar measurement helps you choose:
If you measure incorrectly, you may order the wrong chain loop or a bar that does not match your saw setup.
Called length is the usable cutting portion of the guide bar.
This is the number usually used when buying a replacement bar or chain.
Overall length is the full metal length of the bar from one end to the other, including the section mounted inside the saw body.
This number is usually longer than the called length.
If the visible cutting portion measures about 15.8 inches, that is usually sold as a 16-inch guide bar.
This is usually the fastest and easiest method.
Look near the mounting end of the guide bar for information such as:
Some bars include a part number that helps identify the called length.
On many Oregon bars, the first two digits of the stamped part number indicate the bar length in inches.
If the bar marking is unreadable, measure it yourself.
Make sure the chainsaw is fully powered off before measuring.
Place the tape measure at the point where the guide bar enters the saw body.
Do not start from the inner hidden mount section.
Measure straight to the outermost tip of the guide bar.
Round the result to the nearest standard size.
Example:
If you want the total metal length of the guide bar, remove the bar and measure it from end to end.
Just remember that this is usually not the number used when buying a replacement bar or chain.
Bar length is important, but it is not the only measurement needed for chain replacement.
To get the right chain, you still need:
That is why two 16-inch bars do not always use the same chain.
A 16-inch bar only tells you the approximate cutting length.
It does not automatically tell you:
For example, one 16-inch bar may use:
3/8" LP / .050" / 56DL
while another 16-inch bar may use:
.325" / .050" / 66DL
Both are 16-inch bars, but the chains are not interchangeable.
For many homeowner saws, 14" to 18" is a common range, while larger gas saws often use longer bars depending on the saw class and cutting application.
Once you know your current bar length, confirm these additional details before buying a replacement:
Do not rely on bar length alone.
This includes the hidden mounting section and gives you the wrong number.
Called length should be rounded to the nearest whole inch.
They are not. Length alone does not determine the correct replacement chain or bar.
The guide bar itself often contains the key size information you need.
If you want to measure a chainsaw bar correctly, measure the visible cutting length from the front of the saw body to the tip of the bar and round it to the nearest standard inch size.
That measurement is the called length, and it is the one most commonly used when buying a replacement bar or chain.
Once you know the bar length, make sure to also confirm the pitch, gauge, and drive link count before ordering a chain.
No. For replacement sizing, you usually measure the visible cutting length, not the full overall metal length.
Measure the visible cutting portion of the bar and round to the nearest inch.
No. Chain fit also depends on pitch, gauge, and drive link count.
It is often printed or stamped on the bar tail near the mounting end.
Yes. The correct chain also depends on pitch, gauge, and drive link count.
Measure the bar manually, then confirm pitch, gauge, and drive links using the old chain, manual, or a fit guide.
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